Island Peak (Imja Tse)
6,189m
Nepal's most popular trekking peak at 6,189m — a challenging but accessible summit near Everest Base Camp.
Elevation
6,189m
First Ascent
April 6, 1956
First Ascent By
Hansruedi von Gunten, Gyalzen Sherpa & Lobsang Sherpa (Swiss expedition)
Base Camp Trek
18 days
Permit Fee
USD 250
Difficulty
PD+ (Peu Difficile Plus)
Island Peak (6,189m), officially named Imja Tse, is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal and an excellent introduction to Himalayan mountaineering. Located in the Khumbu region near Everest, the peak was named by the 1953 British Everest expedition — it looks like an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. Members of that expedition climbed the southwest summit as a training exercise.
The standard route involves a glacier approach, a steep headwall climb using fixed ropes, and a famous knife-edge summit ridge with significant exposure. While technically a 'trekking peak' (requiring a simpler permit process), it should not be underestimated — basic mountaineering skills (crampon use, fixed-rope ascent, glacier travel) are essential, and proper acclimatization is critical at this altitude. Success rates vary between 50-85% depending on conditions.
Most climbers combine Island Peak with the Everest Base Camp trek, adding 3-4 days for the climb. The best climbing seasons are spring (April-May) and autumn (October-November). The summit offers breathtaking 360-degree views of Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse.